Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

Why I recommend it

Finnegan writes beautifully about surfing and the life he builds around it. This is also a memoir about friendship, travel, aging, and what a consuming passion asks of us.

What stayed with me

A lifelong pursuit can give us a home and keep pulling us away from it. Learning the ocean takes patience and humility.

Who it’s useful for

Surfers, travelers, and memoir readers.

A tension or limitation

The pursuit of waves sometimes pushes other people and places to the edges of his story.